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Destination:

Vietnam


Siem Reap (Angkor)


Located in the dense jungles of what is now western Cambodia, Angkor was the ancient capital of the great Khmer Empire for nearly 600 years, from the 9th to the 15th centuries. The temples and monuments here are some of the most remarkable architectural masterpieces in the world. So astounding and complex are they in scope that when early French explorers discovered the site in the 19th century, they could not believe Khmers were responsible for it.

Thanks to recent satellite photos, researchers now believe that Angkor was the largest pre-industrial city in the world. Considered the “Prize of Southeast Asia,” the site today comprises over 70 discovered ruins and covers an area of 77 square miles.

The Angkorian period began around 800, when the Khmer King Jayavarman II established Kambujadesa (Cambodia) as an independent kingdom and set himself up as a “god-king.” Over the next 300 years, he and succeeding monarchs built temples and shrines honoring themselves and their chosen religion. Buddhism began to spread from the 10th century onward, leading to a unique mix of Hindu and Buddhist influences within the architecture – Hindu deities were sometimes replaced with images of Buddha, or the reverse.

Khmer culture reached its peak with the construction of Angkor Wat, but began declining soon after – according to one popular theory, Angkor suffered periods of drought that lead to a collapse of their civilization, similar to the fate of the Mayans.

The city of Siem Reap, with its modern international airport and many elegant resorts, is a convenient base for exploring the Angkor sites as well as nearby Tonle Sap Lake and the Preak Toal Bird Sanctuary.

topSights


Angkor Wat

At the heart of Angkor is stunning Angkor Wat, the most famous and best preserved of the Angkor temples, and the largest single religious structure in the world. This magnificent complex was built by King Suryavarman II in the 12th century and originally dedicated to Vishnu, Protector of Creation. It later became a Buddhist temple. Vast in scale, gracefully designed and gorgeously decorated, it marks the pinnacle of the Khmer civilization.


One of the reasons for the temple's fame are the are outstanding bas-relief friezes integrated into the architecture. These depict celestial dancing girls (apsaras), epic mythological battles, and the Churning of the Ocean of Milk, a celebrated Hindu legend in which the devas (gods) and asuras (devils) play tug of war with a seven-headed serpent in order to obtain the nectar of immortality. There are also scenes from the life of Suryavarman II’s imperial court. In one frieze, the king himself is portrayed sitting cross-legged on an elevated throne while a bevy of attendants make him comfortable with the aid of parasols and fans.

The layout of the complex is based on a mandala, or sacred circle portraying the Hindu cosmos. The five-towered central temple represents the five peaks of Mount Meru, home of the gods; the outer walls, the edge of the world; and the moat, the cosmic oceans beyond.


Angkor Thom

The masterpiece of King Jayavarman VII, Angkor Thom means “Great City” in Khmer. It is truly impressive, beginning with the massive South Gate, which is approached by a causeway lined with enormous statues depicting the Churning of the Ocean of Milk.


The complex contains several fascinating ruins, but the highlight is undoubtedly the enigmatic and enchanting temple of the Bayon. Each of its 54 towers features four carved faces of Avalokitesvara (Buddha of Compassion), which are believed to personify the celebrated king himself. Colossal in size, the faces wear calm smiles, exuding both power and kindness. Along the galleries, richly detailed bas-reliefs depict images from daily life and scenes of battle between the Khmer and the Cham.

The Terrace of the Leper King, with its intricately carved platform, was the royal crematorium. The statue that was originally thought to be King Jayavarman VII (who, according to legend, died of leprosy) is now believed to be Yama, the Hindu god of the underworld.

The Terrace of Elephants, adorned with nearly life-sized elephant figures, was originally used as a viewing gallery for the king to preside over parades, performances and traditional sports.

Baphuon, at the southern end of the city, dates from the reign of Udayadityavarman II in the 11th century and was once one of the grandest temples in Angkor. It collapsed long ago, but underwent a massive restoration by the French on and off over the past 100 years, and was officially reopened in July 2011.


Ta Prohm

This unique and evocative temple has been preserved as it was ‘discovered’ by French explorer Henri Mouhout in 1860. Massive banyan trees grow up and around the ruins, smothering the stones and creating a sense of frozen time and inexorable nature. This is a fantastic place for photography, particularly in the early morning.


Banteay Srei

Constructed of pink sandstone, this petite temple is the jewel in the crown of Angkor-era sculpture. The elaborate carvings here are the most exquisite in Cambodia, and cover nearly every inch of the buildings. The temple's name translates to "Citadel of Women” – some think the temple was built to honor female deities, others think the carvings must have been done by women’s hands, due to their fine, intricate detail.

Banteay Samre

Somewhat off the beaten track, this temple was constructed around the same time as Angkor Wat, and resembles it in the style of its towers and balustrades. The carvings here are in excellent condition.

Phnom Bakheng

Few of this temple’s original 109 towers remain, but the vistas from the top make up for it. Perched on a low hill, this temple is especially popular at sunset, when visitors climb (or ride elephants) to the summit for spectacular views of Tonle Sap Lake and Angkor Wat, bathed in golden light.


Tonle Sap Lake

During the rainy season, this vast lake covers 16,000 square kilometers, making it the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia. The combined lake and river system is vitally important to the Cambodian people, who depend on the fish for their protein and on the floodplains for their agriculture. The region also contains several unique wildlife habitats. At the edges of the lake, families of fisherman (usually ethnic Vietnamese) live in stilt houses raised as high as 20 feet in the air, creating striking "floating villages" suspended over the water. The houses are moved as the water levels rise and fall – it’s common to see houses being towed by boat from one location to another.

topAccommodations


Raffles Grand Hotel d'Angkor

1 Vithei Charles de Gaulle
Khum Svay Dang Kum, Siem Reap
Tel: +855 (0)5 63 963 888

Dating from the 1930s, this beautifully restored, five-star Colonial gem blends old-world glamour with modern style and comfort. 131 elegant rooms, 115-foot pool, numerous fine dining choices, award-winning Raffles spa.


La Residence d’Angkor

River Road, Siem Reap
Tel: +85 (0)5 63 963 390

Built in the local style, this intimate resort provides a welcoming, understated atmosphere. 54 king-bedded rooms, 1 suite, individually controlled AC, free wireless in guest rooms. There’s a variety of restaurants, a swimming pool, and a world-class spa. The hotel complies with World Bank environmental standards.

topActivities

Our regional partner, Indochina Travel Company, offers a wide range of activities in the Angkor area.

Preak Toal Bird Sanctuary

Nature lovers won’t want to miss a day trip to Preak Toal biosphere, floating through the villages and flooded forest on a traditional wooden boat to this premier bird-viewing destination. Located at the northwest tip of Tonle Sap Lake, this UNESCO Biosphere Reserve is the most important breeding grounds for rare, large waterbirds in Southeast Asia – over 100 species have been spotted here, 15 of them endangered. The best time to visit is the dry season (Nov-Jun), when flocks of migratory birds congregate. However, receding water can make some areas inaccessible.

Tented Safari

For a truly unique experience, camp overnight at the abandoned, unrestored Beng Mealea temple. Kids will especially enjoy this adventure, which includes exploring the temple by flashlight, Indiana Jones-style, after dark.

Horseback Riding

Due to traffic, horses are unable to visit Angkor Wat and surrounding temples. Instead, rides are arranged to visit Wat Athvea, a secluded Angkorian temple southwest of Siem Reap.

For experienced riders, there’s a half-day trek that also visits Wat Chedai. For family rides, our partner recommends 2- or 3-hour rides on trails venturing through villages, rice fields and to the temple.

Rides can be arranged to suit people’s schedules or experience, though our partner recommends early morning or late afternoon starts due to the heat. Countryside cart rides to Wat Athvea can be arranged for those who do not want to ride.

Helicopter Excursions

Scenic helicopter rides – from short, 15-minute flyovers to 4-hour journeys – can be arranged. The most incredible is a flight to the remote, rural temple of Preah Vihear, set dramatically at the top of a steep 1,500 foot cliff. Affording a view for many miles across the plain, Prasat Preah Vihear has the most spectacular setting of all the temples built during the six-centuries-long Khmer Empire. Afterwards, we suggest a visit to Koh Ker, located about 60 miles northeast of Angkor itself – it was briefly the capital of the Khmer empire between 928 and 944 under King Jayavarman IV.

Boating on Tonle Sap Lake

Take a pleasant boat cruise around the lake, pausing in a “floating village” to meet one of the families and discover more about their way of life in this adopted homeland.