Itinerary

Arrive at historic, war-era Noi Bai Airport, 25 miles outside Hanoi, where decades-old MIG fighters still take to the air. Hanoi, the political and cultural capital of Vietnam, is steeped in history, tradition, and legend, a city that has been inhabited continuously for a millennium and has changed little in decades.

After clearing immigration and customs (about 30 minutes), exit terminal and meet escort for transfer into Hanoi. After hotel check-in, exploring the central lake area and Old Quarter with escort. Dinner recommendations and escort by preference of restaurant.

Rise at dawn to witness traditional exercise rituals, such as badminton and tai chi, on Hoan Kiem Lake, and then explore the local market as vendors set up for the day. After, return to the hotel for breakfast before venturing over to the colonial quarter to visit the Soviet-era Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum where “Bac Ho” lies in state. Also visit his nearby stilt home, where he lived and met with his cabinet during the American war period. We then continue to visit the Temple of Literature, which for nearly ten centuries served as Vietnam’s premier university with education based on the Chinese Mandarin system, in which mandarins, or government bureaucrats, were selected by merit through the extremely vigorous imperial examination.

Lunch at the 5th-generation Cha Ca Va Long, dining on cha ca, a famous northern dish of fried fish. After lunch, begin touring the bustling Old Quarter by cyclo (pedicab) and foot, pausing to visit with local family in their "tube" home who will play various traditional instruments, including the enchanting single-stringed Dan Bau.

Dinner recommendations and transport provided to one of Hanoi's many fine restaurants. In the evening, you have the option to attend the Opera, concert or traditional musical performance.

Insider Tip: Bia hoi, or happy hour, is a post-work custom unique to Hanoi, featuring watered-down draft beer and snacks served up in street front cafes. Other culinary interests? The best beef pho in the country is in Hanoi – don't miss a piping hot bowl (ask your guide for the better places). Also peruse our restaurant list for our current recommendations on Hanoi's finest local and tourist places.

Sightseeing outside Hanoi along the dykes and the Red River, visiting contemporary artist Dao Anh Khanh's sprawling compound where many of his larger works are displayed. After meeting with the artist (by availability), drive over to the West Lake, an area popular with artists, to meet with renowned artists Mrs. Thuy Hanh and husband Tran Khuong (by availability), learning the intricacies of lacquer process. Afterwards, return to Hanoi for lunch with the afternoon free, or continued sightseeing by preference. Other highlights of the city are the Museum of Fine Arts and historical city sights such Hoa Lò Prison (also known as the "Hanoi Hilton" where John McCain was imprisoned for five years during the war). Dinner reservations and transport by preference. (B,L)

The Gulf of Tonkin was once the haunt of Vietnamese and Chinese pirates, but it is in Halong Bay that the romance of old Vietnam still lingers, with majestic karst islets randomly scattered and the odd red sailed junk cruising across the waters. With over 3,000 limestone and dolomite islets sprinkled over an area of 1,500 square kilometers, UNSECO World Heritage Site Halong Bay offers a wonderland of karst topography.

After breakfast, depart for Halong Bay by private car (about three hours), with optional stop at a tourist crafts cooperative. After arrival, board junk and enjoy lunch while motoring out onto the bay. Laze on board viewing the scenery or choose options for cave exploration, swimming, island hiking or visiting local floating villages. Also optional time with chef, observing the catch he purchases from local fisherman and preparation of dinner. (B,L,D)

Optional Experience: If you don't mind the rough facilities and informal nature, our chef welcomes you to join him to visit local markets and fisherman, selecting, buying and preparing fresh seafood from the bay.

Accommodations: Private Junk

Sunrise on misty Halong Bay. After breakfast and jolt of Vietnamese "depth charge" coffee, continued exploration of the bay by kayak, including floating villages, visiting local families who live on the water. Also exploration of beach coves, caves and hidden lakes by kayak. Farewell lunch with crew before afternoon return to Hanoi, pausing briefly at Phu Lang Ceramic Village, before continuing onto Noi Bai Airport for one-hour flight to Hue, the Imperial Capital and arguably Vietnam's most pleasant city.

After meeting escort in Hue, transfer by private car to accommodation along the Perfume River. (B,L)

Accommodations: La Residence

In the morning, full-day city tour, exploring two of the finest examples of Imperial architecture, the tombs of Tu Duc and Khai Dinh. Afterwards, sightseeing along the placid Perfume River and through the high-walled Imperial Citadel, where Vietnam's king's once ruled — a familiar sight from television images during the Tet Offensive in 1968 — followed by a visit to Thien Mu Pagoda, Vietnam's most important Buddhist site, with panoramic views over the river and the nearby Imperial Citadel. Time permitting, explore Dong Ba Market on the river. For dinner, special dinner prepared in a restored mandarin-style wooden home of a relative to royalty. (B,L,D)

Insider Tip: Cuisine has never been a priority in Hue, where many of the political and religious elite are educated (including Ho Chi Minh). The city has largely been bypassed by the wave of development that has washed over Saigon and Hanoi, remaining a pleasant outpost on the central coast. Not to miss? Drinks in the rooftop lounge of the Imperial Hotel with panoramic views over Hue and the Perfume River.

After breakfast, transfer by private car to Hoi An, driving along the scenic coast south of Hue passing the white sands and lagoon on the way to Lang Co, where we stop for lunch. Afterwards, over the Hai Van Pass ("Pass of the High Clouds") affording sweeping views of the area including Lang Co Lagoon. Optional stop en route at the Cham Museum in Danang where artifacts and sculptures from the Cham civilization are kept. After arrival in Hoi An, time permitting, begin sightseeing in town.

Typically a favorite stop, Hoi An appears on ancient marine maps and, before the river silted up, hosted sailors and merchants from China, Japan, and Portugal, becoming one of the most important trading ports in Southeast Asia. Hoi An is a rare place in Vietnam to view genuine Vietnamese architecture complimented by gracious people and a pleasant setting on the Thu Bon River where it empties into the South China Sea. The Old Quarter, though heavily influenced by Chinese and lined with French row houses, still has vestiges of native architecture which survived the war untouched. Hoi An has a flourishing custom-tailoring trade and the artist community has established itself in recent years.

At dusk, a pleasant boat ride on the Thu Bon River fronting Hoi An to the Red Bridge Restaurant. (B, L, D)

Accommodations: Life Resort or the Nam Hai

Fishermen arrive well before dawn at the nearby riverfront market, a fascinating time to visit (by preference). Afterwards, return to hotel for breakfast, followed by half-day sightseeing in Hoi An by foot, including arts and crafts shops, historical sites, small museums, and colorful pagodas. Lunch of traditional Cao Lao Soup. In the afternoon, enjoying free at time at the resort or heading out by bicycle and boat to explore the villages around Hoi An. (B,L)

Insider Tip: Hoi An is now known for "flash fashion," a place where shirts and other items can be measured and sewn overnight. The quality is not on par with Hong Kong or Bangkok tailors, but the price is low and favorite clothing items can be duplicated quickly. Until very recently, the country's finest wood furniture was made in Hoi An but tourism is now the number one trade.

After leisurely breakfast, visit to Marble Mountain and nearby China Beach en route to Danang Airport, exploring Marble Mountain's grottoes and temple. Following lunch in Danang, board flight to Saigon, Vietnam's vibrant commercial hub.

After arrival in Saigon's historic Tan Son Nhut Airport, transit to adjacent international terminal for Siem Reap flight. Arrive in Siem Reap, your base for exploring the nearby temples of Angkor. After arrival, welcome greetings and introductions with escort before transfer to hotel (escort will meet you upon disembarking airplane for expedited immigration). Dinner banquet at resort. (B, D)

Accommodations: La Residence d’Ankgor

This morning, we'll explore Ta Prohm at sunrise. Ta Prohm has been abandoned to the elements, a reminder that while empires rise and fall, the riotous power of nature marches on, oblivious to the dramas of human history. Left as it was ‘discovered’ by French explorer Henri Mouhout in 1860, the tentacle-like silk cotton and fig tree roots here are slowly strangling the surviving stones, creating a surrealistic juxtaposition – especially in the morning light, a perfect time for photography.

After soaking up the unique atmosphere of Ta Prohm, continue to the giant pyramid of Takeo, one of the tallest temples in the Angkor area. Built at the end of the 10th century, it was never completed. Also visit the remains of an old Angkorean bridge which once spanned the Siem Reap River.

After lunch, visiting the immense walled city Angkor Thom that was the masterpiece of King Jayavarman VII. Following the occupation of Angkor by the Chams from 1177 to 1181, the new king dictated the building of an impregnable fortress at the heart of his empire and the scale of their work is staggering, immediately overwhelming visitors upon arrival at the city’s gates. The causeway is lined by an intricate bridge depicting the Churning of the Ocean of Milk from Hindu mythology in which the devas (gods) and asuras (devils) play tug of war with a naga (seven-headed serpent) to “milk” the elixir of immortality.

Next, we'll explore the Terrace of the Leper King. This intricately carved platform was the royal crematorium and the statue that was originally thought to be the leper king is now believed to be Yama, the god of death. Continue along the Terrace of Elephants, originally used as a viewing gallery for the king to preside over parades, performances and traditional sports. At the southern end lies the Baphuon, once of the most beautiful temples at Angkor, dating from the reign of Uditayavarman 1 in the 11th century. It has undergone a massive renovation by the French and is now once again open for viewing.

The climax of Angkor Thom is the enigmatic and enchanting temple of the Bayon. At the exact center of Angkor Thom, this is an eccentric expression of the creative genius and inflated ego of Cambodia’s most celebrated king. Its fifty four towers are each topped off with the four faces of Avalokiteshvara (Buddha of Compassion), which bear more than a passing resemblance to the king himself. The colossal heads stare down from every side, exuding power and control with a hint of compassion, just the mix required to keep a hold on such a vast empire. Before clambering upwards, unravel the mysteries of the bas-reliefs, with their intricate scenes of ancient battles against the Chams and their snapshot of daily life during the Angkor period.

At sunset, return to Siem Reap for dinner and accommodation. (B,D)

Optional Experience: We can arrange a tented safari at the abandoned Beng Melea, which we'll explore Indiana-Jones style at night.

At dawn, journey to the grandest of all temples, Angkor Wat. Built in the 12th century by King Suryavarman II, Angkor Wat marks the climax of Khmer architecture. It is believed to be the world's largest religious building and a perfect fusion of symbolism and symmetry and is a source of pride and strength to all Khmer people. At the center, Angkor Wat was the centerpiece of what is now thought to have been the largest pre-industrial city in the world (Angkor is a Khmer term meaning "city"), with an elaborate system of infrastructure connecting an urban sprawl of at least 1,000 square kilometers.

After consolidating his political position through military campaigns, diplomacy, and a firm domestic administration, King Suryavarman launched into the construction of Angkor Wat as his personal temple mausoleum. With walls nearly one-half mile long on each side, Angkor Wat grandly portrays the Hindu cosmology, with the central towers representing Mount Meru, home of the gods; the outer walls, the mountains enclosing the world; and the moat, the oceans beyond. Suryavarman had the walls of the temple decorated with bas reliefs depicting not only scenes from mythology, but also from the life of his own imperial court. In one of the scenes, the king himself is portrayed as larger in size than his subjects, sitting cross-legged on an elevated throne and holding court, while a bevy of attendants make him comfortable with the aid of parasols and fans.

After exploration of Angkor Wat, travel north to Banteay Srei, Angkor’s ultimate art gallery. This petite pink temple is the jewel in the crown of Angkor-era sculpture. The elaborate carvings here are the finest found in Cambodia and the name translates as ‘Fortress of the Women’, thanks to the intricate detail here, which Khmer’s consider too fine to have been crafted by hands of men. Originally believed to date from the latter part of the Angkor period, inscriptions at the site suggest it was built by a Brahman in 967. However, some architectural historians have suggested that the inscriptions may date from an earlier structure on this site and the temple is in fact later, marking a high-water mark in Khmer sculpture.

Following Banteay Srei, pause at the well-preserved Banteay Samre, constructed around the same time as Angkor Wat and whose style of towers and balustrades bear strong resemblance to Angkor. The carvings here are in excellent condition. In the late afternoon, return to town for dinner and strolling in downtown Siem Reap. (B,D)

Optional visit to the Landmine Museum near Banteay Srei can be included.

Early morning return to Siem Reap airport for short flight to the capital city of Phnom Penh. After arrival at airport, you’ll visit the National Museum before lunch at the FCC with Andy Brouwer, an old Cambodian hand and expert on the country. In the afternoon, visiting sites by preference, including sacred Wat Phnom, the central market, or the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (may be disturbing to children). In the afternoon, return to airport for international flight onward.