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Destination:

Peru


Lake Titicaca

At an elevation of 12,500 feet and covering 3,210 square miles, Lake Titicaca is world’s highest navigable lake. Straddling the border of Peru and Bolivia, its stunning blue waters are dotted with islands, where a number of civilizations have lived for thousands of years. Many of these tribes still follow their age-old traditions, and learning about their unique ways of life is the main reason most travelers visit. You’ll also find a scattering of ancient ruins and colonial churches, set against the starkly beautiful backdrop of the lake and the high plateau.

topIslands


Islas Uros

When hostile invasions drove the Uros tribe off the mainland centuries ago, they created their own place to live – floating islands built entirely of reeds. The Uros still live the same way today, on some 40 islands near the shore of the lake, not far from Puno. The islands are made from dense clumps of totora reeds, which are tethered by ropes to the bottom of the lake – fresh reeds are layered on top as the root base disintegrates. The Uros also use reeds to build their houses, furniture and Viking-like boats.

Pre-dating the Incas, the Uros consider themselves to be “the oldest people on earth.” According to tradition, they are older even than the sun, with black blood that protected them from the cold. They have continued many of their ancient customs, including the weaving of brightly colored textiles, and make their living mostly by fishing and tourism. Young children are educated at a school on the largest island, while older children are educated on the mainland. Some modern conveniences such as television have been embraced – the Uros hope it will encourage more of their young people to return to the islands, once they’ve finished their schooling.


Isla Taquile

Steep and hilly, with red soil that stands out against the blue of the lake, this scenic island was colonized by the Incas over 500 years ago. Though the inhabitants speak Quechua (the Inca language) and follow ancient Inca laws and beliefs, they also have their own unique identity, and their traditional culture has stayed largely unchanged. Renowned weavers of fine textiles, their clothing reflects their marital status, which is indicated by the color and patterns of the men’s caps, and the size and color of the women’s tassels.

Catholicism has also become a part of the culture, and the island holds a number of festivals each year – as in Puno, the largest and most colorful is the Fiesta de la Candelaria, held in February.

The Taquileans are entrepreneurial as well as traditional, and happily offer homestays to visitors. Whether you stay overnight or just make a day trip, you will probably have the chance to participate in a harvest-celebration dance.

topSights


Sillustani

On the shores of scenic, glassy Laguna Umayo, 21 miles outside of Puno, this pre-Inca site is known for its burial towers, or chullpas, some nearly 40 feet high. Built by the Collas to house the mummies of their noble families, the cylindrical towers are masterpieces of engineering – the stonework was likely influenced by the Inca colonists. Earlier, more primitive chullpas are also found on the site, as well as the remains of an astrological calendar – two large circles made of upright stones, with gaps that line up with solstices and equinoxes.

topPuno

Because this city on the edge of the lake provides the best access to the islands, most visitors only pass through. But Puno is also an important cultural crossroads. As the place where the two largest Andean ethnic groups, the Aymara and the Quechua, converge, Puno is known as Peru’s Folkloric Capital, home to spectacular folk festivals featuring elaborate costumes and over 300 local dances. Some of the dances satirize the Spanish conquerors; others honor Andean traditions or rituals.

The most popular and widely known festival is the Festival de la Virgen de la Candelaria, which takes place for nine days in early February. Though nominally a Catholic celebration, it honors the ancient earth goddess, Pachamama. The highlight is the February 2 procession and Diablada dance, performed by dancers blowing panpipes and wearing impressively fearsome devil masks.

topAccommodations


Hotel Libertador

Tel: 1 877 778 2281

Located five minutes from downtown Puno, on a bluff overlooking the lake, this is only five-star hotel in the region. 123 rooms offering spectacular lake views, gastronomic restaurant, cozy bar, and a private pier for setting out on boat excursions.


Casa Andina Private Collection

Av. Sesqui Centenario 1970, Puno
Tel: +51 (0)1 213 9739

This inviting luxury hotel has 46 rooms and suites, most with views of Lake Titicaca. Oxygen is available in the rooms upon request, for those guests having difficulty with the elevation. Gourmet restaurant with panoramic lake views, outdoor terrace overlooking the lake. The hotel has its own private train station stop, for guests coming from Cusco, and a private pier for lake excursions.

topLuxury Train

Visitors to Lake Titicaca can arrive via plane (landing in Juliaca, approx. 27 miles north of Puno), via a scenic but long and winding drive by car or bus, or via train. If you have the time, the train journey is one of the world's most striking.


Andean Explorer

Departures Apr-Oct: Mon, Wed, Fri and Sat
Nov-Mar: Mon, Wed and Sat

Operated by Perurail, the Andean Explorer is a first-class train decorated in the elegant style of a 1920's Pullman train. Service on the 10-hour journey from Cusco to Puno includes a gourmet lunch, on-board entertainment, a fashion show and afternoon tea. You will travel through stark and spectacular valleys and high plateaus, with the Andes towering above you.