Cusco and the Sacred Valley

Cusco was the capital of the ancient Inca empire until it was captured by Pizarro in 1533. The city’s mixed history is evident in the Colonial-style buildings, complete with wooden balconies, atop sturdy foundations of Inca stone. Today, Cusco is the main hub for travelers visiting the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu, preparing to hike the Inca Trail, or heading to the Madre de Dios region of the Amazon rainforest. Though touristy, Cusco is atmospheric, genuine, and charming, with narrow, cobbled streets lined with restaurants and small hotels. You’ll see local families in brightly colored, traditional clothing, holding baby llamas and hoping for photo opportunities (and the chance to earn a few soles). The heart of the city is the Plaza de Armas, dominated by the Renaissance-style façade of the Cathedral.

La Catedral

Begun in 1559 and constructed over the course of 100 years, using blocks of stone taken from the Inca fortress of Sacsayhuamán, this church abounds with Colonial art. Austere on the outside, the inside is lavishly Baroque, with magnificently carved choir stalls and a main altar of Bolivian silver. The walls are hung with hundreds of works from the Cusco school, known for its blend of European iconography and Andean motifs – most notably, the Last Supper by Quechua artist Marcos Zapata, which shows Jesus and the Apostles dining on cuy (roast guinea pig) and drinking chicha (corn beer). Another famous painting depicts Cusco residents parading around the plaza with a crucifix, praying for the great quake of 1650 to stop. According to local belief, it worked – the crucifix itself (“El Señor de Los Tremblores”) is also on display, blackened by years of smoke from devotional candles.

Koricancha and Santo Domingo

Plazoleta Santo Domingo
Open Mon-Sat 8:30am-5:30pm; Sun 2-5pm (Not included in Boleto Turistíco)

Koricancha (also spelled Qoricancha) is Quechua for “Golden Courtyard” – it was once the Inca civilization’s most splendid temple, plated with sheets of gold and filled with life-sized golden statues, honoring the Sun God. This was also the Incas’ main astronomical observatory. The riches are long gone, but the impressive stonework remains, forming the foundation for the church and convent of Santo Domingo. The Inca method of fitting stones tightly together has allowed their ancient walls to withstand major earthquakes, while newer structures crumbled – the curved stone wall beneath the west end of the church may be the finest illustration of Inca stonework in existence.

Central Market

Near San Pedro train station
Open daily approx. 8am-4pm

Selling a huge range of products, this vibrant market is a fascinating slice of Cusco life. Though you’ll find some souvenirs and crafts for sale, most of the items are of the more everyday variety – produce of all types, flowers, meats, spices, clothing, kitchen utensils. There's even a row of juice bars - just pull up a stool in front of the flavor of your choice. Don’t bring valuables, and beware of pickpockets.

Sacsayhuamán

Located on a bluff overlooking Cusco, this great fortress is another striking example of Inca architecture. The Incas visualized Cusco in the shape of a puma, when seen from above – Sacsayhuamán forms the puma’s head, and the zig-zagging walls its teeth. The fort was large enough to hold the entire population of Cusco in the case of disaster. When disaster came, however, it was not one the Incas could have foreseen – this was the site of last battle of the Incas against the Spanish in 1536. Many of the stones were removed by the Spanish and used to build the cathedral and other structures in Cusco, but the remaining ramparts and gates are still impressive, as is the view.

Hotel Monasterio

Calle Palacio 136, Plazoleta Nazarenas
Tel: +51 84 60 4000  Reservations: +511 610 8300

A former monastery and national monument dating from 1592, this renowned Orient-Express property combines centuries-old charm and ambience with luxurious service and amenities.

Palacio Nazarenas

Plaza Nazarenas 144
Reservations: +511 610 8300

Just opened in June 2012 after a painstaking restoration, this former palace and convent is now one of the city's most exclusive boutique hotels. 55 suites, each equipped with oxygen and a personal butler 24/7.

This scenic and fertile valley, northwest of Cusco and 2000-3000 feet lower in elevation, follows the path of the Urubamba River. A number of important Inca and pre-Inca sites are found here, making it a worthwhile day trip from Cusco. This is also a prime area for outdoor recreation. The Urubamba River offers Class II and III rapids for river rafting – other options include mountainbiking, kayaking on the lakes, or horseback riding (the Peruvian Paso horse has the smoothest gait in the world).

Ollantaytambo

Relatively unchanged by tourism, this village has been continuously inhabited since the 13th century and is the best surviving example of Inca town planning. It’s also the starting point of the Inca Trail. Looming over the village are the ruins of a vast fortress, built to protect the entrance to the valley.

Pisac

This town was once an important regional capital – the dramatically situated hilltop fortress, now in ruins, features military, residential and religious buildings, including an astronomical observatory. At the foot of the hill, charming Pisac village holds a large and popular market every Sunday, selling a wonderful variety of handicrafts such as alpaca sweaters, gloves and scarves, carved figurines, and jewelry. Smaller markets are held on Tues and Thurs, and handicraft shops are open every day of the week.

Tambo del Inka

Avenida Ferrocarril S/N, Urubamba
Tel: 1 877 778 2281

Opened in April, 2010, this luxurious retreat is the first of its kind in the Sacred Valley. 128 elegant rooms and suites with views of the Andes and the Vilcanota River, full-service spa, two heated swimming pools and its very own train station to facilitate trips to Machu Picchu.

Though the trek is not technical (climbing and descending are accomplished via stone steps), it is challenging due to the elevation – a maximum of 13,779 feet – and the elements. The rewards are well worth the effort, though, as you walk through lush cloud forest and past waterfalls, see one spectacular mountain panorama after another, explore a fascinating series of ruins, and arrive at dawn of the fourth day at the Sun Gate overlooking famous Machu Picchu.

The Classic Inca Trail hike is usually done in 4 days, but some operators offer a 5-day option which may mean less crowded camping areas. There also are 2- and 7-day itineraries available. If you prefer not to camp at all, but still want a taste of the experience, there’s the Short Inca Trail option, taking the train from Cusco to Kilometer 104 and hiking the remaining 8km (approx 5 miles) to Machu Picchu. It’s a 6-7 hour hike, with a maximum elevation of 8,858 feet – you’ll pass the impressive ruins of Wiñay Wayna (an important Inca township) on the way.