Rio de Janeiro

Rio is best known for its elaborate Carnaval, featuring thousands of floats, and its music. Cariocas (as Rio residents are called) are very particular about their different types of samba and bossa nova, and local artists have a loyal following. At the dancing clubs, women don’t worry about having partners – they dance alone or in groups, feet and hips moving in a crazy rhythm I could not begin to copy. Cariocas dress up to go out at night, but during the day everyone is very casual, dressed for the beach in body-conscious fashions.

Sugar Loaf Mountain

Rio’s iconic landmark, cone-shaped Pão de Açúcar, rises from the water’s edge northeast of Copacabana. Bedecked with lush vegetation, the mountain is home to tufted-eared marmosts, tropical birds and orchids. The 1,312-foot summit offers spectacular views of the city and beaches spread out below. Riding the cable car up to the top is very worthwhile, but time consuming, so you need to plan ahead. Visibility is best early in the day; to steer clear of the crowds, avoid the busiest times (10am-3pm).

Cable Car (Bohindo Pão de Açúcar)
Avenida Pasteur 520, Urca
Tel: +55 21 2461 2700
Runs 8am-7:50pm. Departures every 20 minutes.

Paço Imperial (Imperial Palace)

Praça XV de Novembro 48
Tel: +55 21 2533 4491
Open Tue-Sun 12-6pm

One of Rio’s most important architectural sites, this modest building became the seat of colonial government in 1743. Renovations were made for the arrival of the Portuguese royal family in 1808. It served as a royal residence and then as an administrative center until Brazil became a republic in 1889. Today it houses the National Artistic and Historical Heritage Institute Cultural Center.

Mosteiro de São Bento

Rua Dom Gerardo 68, Centro
Tel: +55 21 2206 8100
Sunday mass with Gregorian chants 10am

Founded by Benedictine monks in the 16th century, this hilltop monastery’s plain façade is a sharp contrast to the richly adorned interior. The elaborate decorations, added in the 17th and 18th centuries, are fine examples of Brazilian Baroque, featuring plenty of gold leaf, spiral columns, carved doors and magnificent statues.

Escadaria Selaròn

Linking Lapa with Santa Teresa, this flight of 215 stairs decorated with brightly colored mosaic tiles are the work of Chilean-born artist Jorge Selaròn. Ever changing, the tiles are sourced from around the world, and the staircase has been featured in a number of photo shoots and music videos. Selaròn himself can often be found at the staircase, working on one of the mosaics. (Muggings have been known to occur on the stairs – avoid the top portion near Convento de Santa Teresa, especially at night.)

Jardim Botânico

Open daily 8am-5pm

Created by the royal family in 1808, these gardens were started with plants gathered from Portugal’s colonial holdings around the world. The 339-acre gardens were opened to the public in 1889, and feature a total of 8500 different species of plants, including some of the world’s rarest orchids. Monkeys and native birds populate the park as well. The upscale neighborhood around the garden, also known as Jardim Botanico, has become a haven for artists, offering a number of interesting galleries and sophisticated bars and restaurants.

Cristo Redentor

Rua Cosme Velho 513, Corcovado
Tel: +55 21 2558 1329
Open daily 8:30am-6:30pm

Named one of the “New Seven Wonders of the World” in 2007, this 98-foot tall statue of Christ the Redeemer overlooks all of Rio from its perch atop 2,316-foot Corcovado (“Hunchback”) mountain. On a clear day the views from here, of the city and the surrounding Parque Nacional Da Tijuca, are fantastic – perhaps even better than those from Sugar Loaf (since the vista includes Sugar Loaf itself). A funicular railway, Trem do Corcovado, runs from the charming Cosme Velho neighborhood at the base of the mountain up to the summit. Other ways to arrive are by organized tour or taxi (no private cars are allowed).

Sítio Roberto Burle Marx

Estrada Roberto Burle Marx 2019, Pedra da Guaratiba
Tel: +55 21 2410 1412
Open Tue-Sat by appointment only

In 1949, famed landscape architect Roberto Burle Marx turned this former coffee plantation into a vast nursery for his collection of exotic plants. He moved to the property in 1973 and lived there until his death. Guided tours of the exquisitely lush grounds and the house museum (filled with Marx’s vast collection of folk art and ceramics) are available. For me, visiting this 100-acre estate was like revisiting the rainforests of Northern Queensland – it inspired me to plan a trip to the Amazon jungle!

Parque Nacional Da Tijuca

Open daily 8am-5pm

This vast park contains a number of stunning vista points, the impressive Pedra da Gávea (said to be the world’s largest coastal monolith), and the world’s largest urban forest, the Floresta de Tijuca. The lush, 15-square mile forest is a true oasis, offering hiking trails and waterfalls, and housing a large variety of wildlife, including monkeys, sloths, ocelots, and many species of birds. Unfortunately, muggings and car jackings can be a problem here – for optimum safety, book a tour, and avoid the park at night.

Estádio do Maracanã

Rua Professor Eurico Rabelo, Maracanã
Tel: +55 21 2299 2442
Tours daily 9am-5pm, except on match days

Even in soccer-mad South America, Brazil’s passion for the sport stands out. This famed soccer stadium is the world’s largest – built for the 1950 World Cup, it set an attendance record of 199,854 during that event, though capacity has since been reduced to around 85,000. Officially named Estádio Mario Filho, it’s commonly known as “Maracanã” for the surrounding neighborhood. The sidewalk outside bears the footprints of Pelé and other stars – the Museo de Futbol near Gate 18 is dedicated to soccer greats. Guided tours of the stadium are available. (Note: The stadium is currently closed for renovations in preparation for the 2014 World Cup. The scheduled date for reopening is early 2013.)

Museu Nacional de Belas Artes

Av. Rio Branco 199, Centro
Tel: +51 21 2219 8474
Open Tue-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat, Sun and holidays noon-5pm

This Louvre-inspired building houses the most comprehensive collection of Brazilian art in the country, with over 20,000 works including a particularly rich assemblage of 19th-20th century art. There’s also an excellent collection of African art and Brazilian folk art.

Museu Historico Nacional

Praça Marechal Âncora, Centro
Tel: +55 21 240 2092
Open Tue-Fri 10am-5:30 pm, Sat, Sun and holidays 2-6pm. Closed Mon.

Housed in a former arsenal, this museum recently underwent a major reorganization. The collections provide a detailed survey of Brazilian history from pre-Colombian times to the 19th century, with exhibits ranging from prehistoric rock paintings to royal carriages and thrones.

Museu de Arte Moderna (MAM)

Av. Infante Dom Henrique 85, Parque Brigadeiro Eduardo Gomes, Flamengo
Tel: +55 21 2240 49499
Open Tue-Sun and holidays 12-6pm

Within this striking modernist structure are some 1,700 works by Brazilian and international artists. Though the permanent collection is somewhat disappointing, the museum attracts top-quality traveling exhibitions.

Museu de Arte Contemoporanea de Niterói (MAC)

Mirante da Boa Viagem, Niterói
Tel: +55 21 2620 2400
Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm

This iconic structure is located in the city of Niterói, a pleasant ferry ride away from downtown Rio. Visitors come here as much for the building as for the art – designed by famed Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer, and located on rocky cliff that juts into the bay, the dish-shaped building rises up from a narrow base and seems to float over the water.

Museu da Chácara do Céu

Rua Murtinho Nombre 93, Santa Teresa
Tel: +55 21 2507 1932
Open Wed-Mon noon-5pm

Former home of art patron Raymundo de Castro Maya, this hilltop mansion offers spectacular views as well as an excellent museum featuring (mostly modern) European, Asian and Brazilian art and furnishings. Though thieves made off with some $50 million worth of paintings during a heist in 2006, the remaining collection of Matisses, Dalís and Monets is still outstanding.

Boat Tours

Take a 2-hour or half-day cruise on Guanabara Bay aboard an old wooden fishing schooner. You’ll enjoy glorious views of Sugar Loaf, Christ the Reedemer, and the impressive Fortaleza Santa Cruz.

Santa Teresa Tram Rides and Tours

Trams depart every 30 minutes, 7am-8:30pm
Terminal located behind the Petrobras building, Rua Prof. Lélio Gama, off Rua Senador Dantas, Centro
Tour information: Museu do Bonde, +55 21 2215 8581

The best way to get to Santa Teresa is by the quaint, open-sided yellow tram (Bonde de Santa Teresa) that winds up the hill from Centro. Both lines cross the monumental Arcos da Lapa aqueduct to Largo dos Guimaraes, in the heart of Santa Teresa. The Paula Matos line continues on to the pleasant, leafy Largo das Nevas square. Special guided tram tours run every Saturday at 10am – this ride takes you on the Dios Irmãos line into the forest above Santa Teresa. Watch your possessions closely while on board the tram.

Hotel Fasano Rio de Janeiro

Av. Viera Souto 80, Ipanema
Reservations: +55 21 3202 4000

Designed entirely from scratch by Phillipe Starck, this very chic hotel on Ipanema beach is favored by celebrities like Bon Jovi and Madonna. Rooftop swimming pool, brand-new full-service spa.

Copacabana Palace Hotel

Avenida Atlântica 1702, Copacabana
Tel: +55 21 2548 7070
Fax: +55 21 2235 7330
Email: reservas@copacabanapalace.com.br

This legendary hotel has just undergone a major renovation. With its Art Deco façade and beachside location, it’s truly fabulous. 245 rooms and suites, magnificent outdoor pool, full-service spa.

Aprazível

Rua Aprazível 62, Santa Teresa
Tel: +55 21 2508 9174
Open Tue-Sat 12pm-1am, Sun & holidays 12-7pm

A wonderful Brazilian restaurant high in the hills overlooking Rio.

Restaurante Quinta

Rua Luciano Gallet 150, Vargem Grande
Tel: +55 21 2428 1396

Crab is one of Brazil’s national dishes – you can get that and many other excellent dishes here, in a colonial-style building surrounded by tropical gardens filled with wildlife. Located in the Zona Oeste, it's about 45 mins from Copacabana, but worth it.