São Paulo
São Paulo is not only Brazil’s largest city, it’s the largest city in South America. Home to an amazingly diverse population of 19 million, it is a sprawling place – in some ways, it reminded me of Cairo. To get the most of it (and not get lost) you need an intimate, well-organized tour. Along with its vast size and infamous pockets of poverty, São Paulo is also very cosmopolitan, the financial heart of Brazil and home to many of its wealthiest citizens. There’s not much in the way of historic architecture, but the city boasts prominent art and cultural scenes, world-class restaurants, non-stop nightlife, and excellent shopping.
We stayed in the Jardins district, which encompasses the Avenida Paulista (the city’s iconic main thoroughfare), and the affluent Jardim Paulista, Jardim America, Jardim Europa and Cerqueria César neighborhoods. This is one of São Paulo’s safest areas – we felt comfortable walking around. Here you’ll find some of the city’s finest museums as well as its best shopping. Our art tour took us to a number of other interesting neighborhoods – Luz, a once-seedy district undergoing a cultural renaissance; exclusive Marumbi, with its gated villas; trendy Vila Madalena, filled with hip galleries and boutiques; and industrial Barra Funda. Though the city is more serious than Rio, we enjoyed its sophisticated museums and galleries, and were impressed by São Paulo’s emergence as a center of commerce and culture.
topSights
Ibirapuera Park
Located alongside the Jardins district, São Paolo’s central green space was inaugurated in 1954 as part of the city’s 400th anniversary. Designed by a team of architects and landscape designers that included Oscar Niemeyer and Roberto Burle Marx, it’s home to several cultural institutions such as the Museum of Modern Art, Oca, and the Planetarium. The Pavilhão da Bienal holds a major art exhibition in even-numbered years, and an architectural exhibition in odd-numbered years.
Praça da Sé
This attractive public plaza is the financial and cultural heart of São Paolo, as well as its literal center (all distances are measured from this spot). Surrounding points of interest include the Catedral da Sé, the Centro Cultural Banco do Brazil, the Banespa building and the Martinelli Building.
Catedral da Sé
Also known as the Catedral Metropolitana, this is one of the largest neo-Gothic cathedrals in the world. Built between 1913 and 1967, and renovated in 2002, it seats 8000 people. Buried in the large crypt is Tibiriçá, a chief of the Guaianaz tribe who aided the first Jesuit arrivals and made the founding of São Paolo possible.
Centro Cultural Banco do Brazil (CCBB)
Rua Álvares Penteado 112, Centro
Tel: +55 11 3113 3600
Open Tue-Sun 10am-8pm
Housed in a striking Beaux Arts building, this cutting-edge visual arts center offers three floors of exhibition rooms, theaters, and cinemas, offering dance, literature, film, theater and education programs. The temporary art exhibits are nearly always worth a look.
Banespa Building
Rua João Brícola 24, Centro
Open Mon-Fri 10am-5pm
Formally known as the Edifício Altino Arantes, this building was modeled on the Empire State Building and offers panoramic views from its 36th-floor observation tower (no fee, but you will need your passport for ID).
Edifício Martinelli
Rua São Bento 397, Centro
Tel: +55 11 3104-2477
Guided tours available by calling the number above or through the website.
Available Times:
Mon, Tue and Fri 9:30 and 11:30am, 2:30 and 4:30pm;
Sat up to 1pm
Built in 1929, this landmark, 35-story Gothic building was the city’s first skyscraper.
Mercado Municipal
Rua da Cantareira 306, Centro
Tel: +55 11 3228 0673
Open Mon-Sat 6am-6pm, Sun and holidays 6am-4pm
Under enormous stained-glass windows depicting agricultural scenes, this vast market offers a wide variety of native and exotic vegetables, fruits, cheeses, spices, fish and meats. Affectionately known by locals as Marcadão, the 1928 market building was completely restored in 2004 and features 23 restaurants and snack bars along with hundreds of stands.
topMuseums and Galleries
Museu de Arte Moderna (MAM)
Rua Pedro Àlvares Cabral
Parque do Ibirapuera, portão 3
Tel: +55 11 5085 1300
Open Tue-Sun and holidays 10am-6pm
Founded in 1948, this was the first museum of its kind in Brazil, and is still one of the country’s most important modern art museums. The permanent collection of over 4,500 works features artists such as Alfredo Volpi, Pablo Picasso and Joan Miro. The café, Pret, offers wonderful buffet meals and great views of the sculpture garden.
Oca
Rua Pedro Àlvares Cabral
Parque do Ibirapuera
Opening times vary
This futuristic building by Oscar Niemeyer hosts excellent temporary exhibits of pop and traditional art.
Museu de Arte de São Paolo Assis Chateaubriand (MASP)
Avenida Paulista 1578, Cerqueria César
Tel: +55 11 3251 5644
Open Tue-Sun 11am-6pm
Housed in a landmark concrete-and-glass building designed by Lina Bo Bardi, this museum was the result of a collaboration between communications tycoon Assis Chateaubriand and Italian art dealer Pietro Maria Bardi. Within is a collection of European paintings that is considered the finest in South America, with works by artist such as Van Gogh, Modigliani, Renoir and Degas. MASP also has a large display of Brazilian art, smaller collections of African and Asian art, and one of Brazil’s biggest art libraries.
Museu de Arte Contemporânea (MAC)
Rua da Reitoria 160, Butanta Cidade Universitaria
Tel: +55 11 3091 3039
Open Tue-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat-Sun 10am-4pm
Another of Brazil’s most highly regarded cultural institutions, this museum contains an impressive collection of works by renowned European artists such as Chagall and Matisse, and famed Brazilian artists like Volpi and Di Cavalcanti. There’s a smaller branch of the museum in the Parque do Ibirapuera.
Pinacoteca do Estado
Praça de Luz 2, Luz
Tel: +55 11 3324 1000
Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm
This is Brazil’s oldest art museum, founded in 1905 and housed in a lovely, historic brick building, newly renovated by Brazilian architect Paulo Mendes da Rocha. The collection of over 5,000 works includes a number of Rodin sculptures and a large, wide-ranging assemblage of Brazilian art.
Estação Pinacoteca
Largo General Osório 66, Luz
Tel: +55 11 3335 4990
Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm (last entry 5:30pm)
Resistance Memorial de São Paulo
Tel: + 55 11 3335 4990
Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm (last entry 5:30pm). Free entry.
Built in 1914 to hold railroad offices and warehouses, this building was used as a prison under Brazil’s military dictatorship. Fully restored, it now houses visiting exhibits of the Pinacoteca do Estado, as well as the Memorial da Resistência.
Museu de Arte Sacra
Avenida Tiradentes 676, Luz
Tel: +55 11 3326 1373
Open Tue-Sun 11am-7pm
Located in the colonial Ingreja do Convento da Luz, this museum is home to over 4,000 works of rococo and Baroque religious art, mostly made of wood and terra cotta, dating from the 17th century to the present. One wing exhibits nativity scenes from around the world.
Galeria Luisa Strina
Rua Oscar Freire 502, Cerqueira César
Tel: +55 11 3088 2417
Open Mon-Fri 10am-7pm, Sat 10am-5pm
One of São Paolo’s first and most iconic galleries for contemporary art, displaying thought-provoking works by both national and international artists.
Galeria Fortes Vilaça
Rua Fradique Coutinho 1500, Vila Madalena
Tel: +55 11 3032 7066
Open Tue-Sat 10 am-7 pm
This well-established gallery features up-and-coming artists from around the world.
Galpão Fortes Vilaça
Rua James Holland 71, Barra Funda
Tel: + 55 11 3392 3942
Open Tue-Sat 10 am-7 pm
The warehouse annex has a double purpose: to support and promote exciting new artists from Brazil, and introduce Brazil to prominent artists from the international scene.
Galeria Millan
Rua Fradique Coutinho 1360, Vila Madalena
Tel: +55 11 3031 6007
Open Mon-Fri 10am-7pm, Sat 11am-5pm
This gallery showcases the works of 19 contemporary Brazilian artists.
topHotel
Hotel Fasano São Paulo
Rua Vittorio Fasano 88, Jardins
Tel: +55 11 3896 4000
Fax: + 55 11 3896 4155
São Paulo’s most understated, sophisticated luxury hotel, located within the city’s prime shopping area. Rooftop swimming pool, full-service spa.
Hotel Unique
Avenida Brigadeiro Luis Antonio,
4700 Jardim Paulista,
São Paulo 01402-002
Tel +55 11 3055-4710
Fax +55 11 3889-8100
Email: reservas@hotelunique.com
topRestaurants
D. O. M.
Rua Barão de Capanema 549, Cerqueira César
Tel: +55 11 3088.0761
Lunch Mon-Fri noon-3pm; Dinner Mon-Thu 7pm-midnight, Fri-Sat 7pm-1am.
Closed Sun.
Imaginative molecular gastronomy dishes by Brazilian star chef Alex Atala. This is São Paulo’s “El Bulli.”
Restaurante Figueira Rubaiyat
Rua Haddock Lobo 1738, Jardim Paulista
Tel: +55 11 3063 3888
Mon-Fri noon-3:30pm and 7pm-midnight; Sat-Sun noon-12:30am
Enjoy the best homegrown beef in São Paulo, in the restaurant’s chic-informal interior or on the patio, under an enormous 130-year old fig tree.
Tordesilhas
Rua Bela Cintra 465, Cerqueira César
Tel: +55 11 3107 7444
Lunch Tues-Fri 12-3pm; Sat-Sun 12-5pm. Dinner Tues-Sat 7pm-midnight
Inventive cuisine representing Brazil’s diverse culinary traditions, served in a cozy, rustic setting.
Pitanga
Rua Original 162, Vila Madalena
Tel: +55 11 3816 2914
Lunch Tue-Fri 12-3:30pm, Sat-Sun 12-5pm
This friendly place in the artistic Vila Madalena district serves an eclectic buffet of Brazilian food. The décor is neighborhood-appropriate, with interesting ethnic art on the walls.
Clos de Tapas
R. Domingos Fernandes, 548 – Vl. Nova Conceição
São Paulo
Tel: 55 11 3045-2154
Email: contato@closdetapas.com.br
Closed Sunday.
Fun menu with Spanish and Japanese twists on Sao Paulo cuisine.
Kinoshita
Rua Jacques Félix 405 Vila Nova Conceição Phone: 55-11-3849-6940 Hours: Mon-Fri noon-3 p.m. and 7 p.m.-midnight; Sat and holidays noon-4 p.m. and 7 p.m.-midnight
Offers Japanese cuisine with Brazilian inflections.
topShopping
topJardins
The walkable Jardins district offers great upscale shopping, particularly along Alameda Lorena and Ruas Haddock Lobo, Bela Cintra, Oscar Frieire and Vittorio Fasano.
Osklen
Rua Oscar Friere 645
Tel: +55 11 3083 7977
Sophisticated men’s and ladies’ fashions, featuring unique textiles and exquisite construction.
Espaço Havaianas
Rua Oscar Friere 1116
Tel: +55 11 3079-3415
The flagship store of the popular Havaianas brand, offering a smorgasbord of flip-flops in every color and pattern.
Cris Barros
Rua Vittorio Fasano 85
Tel: +55 11 3082 3621
Simple, elegant fashions with a touch of Brazilian glamour.
topVila Olimpia
Daslu
Avenida Chedid Jafet 131, Vila Olimpia
Mon and Wed-Sat 10am-8pm, Tue 10am-10pm
Among the world’s most expensive and exclusive department stores/malls (it even has its own helipad), Daslu offers 183,000 sq. ft. of luxurious, haute-couture boutiques. This is where Sao Paulo’s glitterati come to shop, dine and entertain.
topDay Trip
Inhotim
Thematic and Panoramic guided tours available
Tour information: +55 31 3227 0001, Mon-Fri 8am-5pm
Email: info@inhotim.org.br
Open Wed, Thu, Fri 9:30am-4:30pm; Sat, Sun, holidays 9:30am-5:30pm. Closed Mon-Tue.
One of the most significant art properties in Brazil is the Instituto Cultural Inhotim, a 3,000-acre art park about 38 miles outside Belo Horizonte (it’s a very worthwhile day trip by plane from São Paolo).
The park was designed by famed landscape architect Roberto Burle Marx, and features over 600 international works of art in 14 pavilions and galleries, surrounded by a gorgeous botanical garden filled with rare plants. The permanent galleries were created through collaborations between the artists, architects and the institute, while the temporary galleries share a versatile open design that allows for all types of exhibits. I particularly like the Beam Drop installation, created by dropping metal beams of various lengths into wet concrete.
Tips:
Wear comfortable clothes suited for the local temperatures.
Wear comfortable walking shoes so you can fully enjoy the grounds.
Bring plenty of sunblock.