Napa and Sonoma
These two counties are best known for their world-class wines. Napa Valley and Sonoma Valley are what most people are thinking of when they refer to the “California Wine Country,” though this region extends north through the Russian River Valley and Anderson Valley, all the way to the Mendocino coast. Lovely and bucolic, with vine-covered valleys, forested hills, winding rivers, and a breathtaking stretch of coast, the entire wine country is well worth exploring, but if you have limited time, Napa and Sonoma are only a 1.5 or 1 hour drive, respectively, from San Francisco.
Very popular in all but the winter months, the valleys are hot in summer, with cool nights. In spring, mustard flowers carpet the vineyards in yellow, while in the fall, the vines themselves turn dazzling shades of red and gold. Even in winter, when rain is frequent, the idea of ducking into a cozy tasting room for a sample or two has its appeal (as does the lack of crowds).
Excellent wines tend to go hand in hand with fine cuisine, and these counties are thickly peppered with great restaurants, some very famous. Luxurious spas and resorts and historic hotels round out the decadent experience, but if you’re feeling active, this area is perfect for a bike ride, a nature hike, or a hot-air balloon excursion.
topNapa Valley
Without a doubt the most famous and respected winegrowing region in the U.S., the Napa Valley produces wines that regularly surpass their European competition. Wine production here dates back to 1838, when George C. Yount planted his first vines. Soon, German, French and Italian winemakers were planting the varietals Napa has become known for. The region’s volcanic soil is ideal for winegrowing, and the geologic events that produced the soil also provided a wealth of hot springs (a spa experience should definitely be part of your visit here).
The main artery through the valley is Route 29, which can get quite congested on weekends. The scenic, meandering Silverado Trail runs roughly parallel to 29 and is a generally less-crowded alternative. Both are lined with world-class wineries, as are the country roads in between. Some of the finest wineries are only open by appointment, but most allow you to drop in. Nearly all charge for tastings, and some offer tours, which give interesting insights into the winemaking process.
topNapa
Napa is a good-sized city with its share of strip malls and urban sprawl. But efforts have been made recently to spruce up its historic downtown, which features a new river promenade and the wonderful Oxbow Public Market.
Oxbow Public Market
610 & 644 First Street
Napa, California 94559
Open 9am-7pm Mon-Sun (later hours Tue-Sat; hours vary by merchant)
A fantastic variety of artisanal food and wine purveyors, from the Hog Island Oyster Company and the innovative C Casa Taqueria to the Whole Spice Company, Oxbow Cheese Merchant and Tillerman Tea. Great for a casual meal, stocking up your pantry, or gathering provisions for a picnic.
topYountville
This small, quaint town was named for adventurer and pioneer George Yount, the first American to settle in the area – he also planted the Napa Valley’s first grapes, to our everlasting gratitude. Today, Yountville is best known as the home of French Laundry, Thomas Keller’s world-famous restaurant.
topSt. Helena
Charming, historic St. Helena is in the very heart of the Napa Valley – the town’s main street is Route 29. If you’re passing through, it’s worth stopping to browse its boutiques and dine at one of its many restaurants, which range from casual to exceptional.
topCalistoga
Most of the Napa Valley’s hot springs are centered around Calistoga, which was founded as a spa resort town by millionaire Sam Brannan in the mid-19th century. The town is home to a plethora of spas offering mud baths, massages and aromatherapy wraps, as well as a variety of shops, hotels and restaurants.
Old Faithful Geyser
1299 Tubbs Lane
Calistoga, CA 94515
Tel: (707) 942-6463
Open daily 9am-5pm winter, 9am-6pm summer
Even more reliable than Yellowstone’s Old Faithful, Calistoga’s geyser erupts approximately every 30 minutes, sending up a plume 60 to 100 feet high. It is one of only three geysers in the world that perform at regular intervals. There is a fee to view the geyser, but admission also includes the facility’s unique array of livestock, including Tennessee Fainting Goats.
topRestaurants
Ad Hoc
6476 Washington St.
Yountville, CA 94599
Tel: (707) 944-2487
Part of the Thomas Keller restaurant group, this unassuming place with its daily-changing, 4-course family-style menu was originally meant to be temporary – but thanks the overwhelmingly positive response, it is still going strong.
Auberge du Soleil
180 Rutherford Hill Road
Rutherford, CA 94573
Tel: (800) 348-5406
This Wine Country icon opened more than 30 years ago. Diners enjoy panoramic views of Napa Valley, while savoring Mediterranean-inspired cuisine that reflects the valley’s diversity and richness. One Michelin star.
Bistro Don Giovanni
4110 Howard Lane
Napa, CA 94558
Tel: (707) 224-3300
This inviting hideaway has been serving its creative Italian dishes to both visitors and locals since 1993.
Bouchon
6534 Washington St.
Yountville, CA 94599
Tel: (707) 944-8037
More casual than French Laundry, Thomas Keller’s bistro serves top-notch French comfort food. One Michelin star.
étoile
1 California Drive
Yountville, CA 94599
Tel: (888) 242-6366
Located within the Domaine Chandon winery, this fine-dining restaurant offers sophisticated, wine-inspired cuisine. One Michelin star.
The French Laundry
6640 Washington St.
Yountville, CA 94599
Lunch Fri-Sun, Dinner nightly
Tel: (707) 944-2380
Reservations accepted no more than two months in advance. Jackets required.
Thomas Keller’s flagship restaurant offers one of the most celebrated dining experiences in the world. Two unique, nine-course tasting menus daily. Simply unforgettable. Three Michelin stars.
La Toque
1314 McKinstry Street
Napa, CA 94559
Tel: (707) 257-5157
An emerging star in the crowded celestial landscape of the Napa Valley. Chef Ken Frank serves a Core menu, from which you can create your own multi-course experience, or a Chef’s Table Menu, a nine-course tasting menu. One Michelin star.
Redd
6480 Washington Street
Yountville, CA 94599
The first venture from acclaimed local chef Richard Reddington. Creative, thoughtfully prepared dishes. One Michelin star.
The Restaurant at Meadowood
900 Meadowood Lane
St. Helena, CA 94574
Tel: (707) 967-1205
Jackets are optional. Children 12 and older welcome.
Already a famed dining destination, this restaurant reopened in March 2012 after a redesign. With his modern, elegant approach, Chef Christopher Kostow seeks to deliver a singular dining experience for every guest. Seasonal, unique and precise California cuisine; nine or ten-course tasting menu. Three Michelin stars.
Terra
1345 Railroad Ave.
St. Helena, CA 94574
Tel: (707) 963-8931
This longtime Napa Valley favorite recently split into two venues: Terra and Bar Terra. Terra offers a prix fixe menu of classics and new dishes, from which diners can create their own four-to-six-course meals, while Bar Terra offers lighter fare. One Michelin star.
Solbar
755 Silverado Trail (in Solage resort)
Calistoga, CA
94515
Tel: (707) 226-0850
Artfully constructed, innovative soul food, served in the chic, spacious dining room or alfresco by the pool.
topAccommodations
Hotels & Resorts
Auberge du Soleil
180 Rutherford Hill Road
Rutherford, CA 94573
Tel: (707) 963-12111
Opened in 1981 as a restaurant by French born-restaurateur Claude Rouas and then expanded into an inn and spa, this resort is a sun-drenched slice of Provence, blending luxury with wellness and environmental sensitivity. Rooms, suites and private maisons feature plush but contemporary Mediterranean-inspired décor.
Meadowood Resort
900 Meadowood Lane
St. Helena, CA 94574
Tel: (707) 963-3646
This is perhaps the Napa Valley’s most luxurious resort, with a variety of exquisite accommodations ranging from cottages to lodges to suites (most with terraces and/or fireplaces and views of the wooded grounds). Service is exceptional. Unique touches include two croquet lawns and a labyrinth in the woods. There's an art historian on staff specifically for wine-related art and history – she can create family-specific programs for guests who enjoy art, wine, culture, history & the culinary arts.
Bardessono
6526 Yount St.
Yountville, CA 94599
Tel: (707) 204 6000
A model of simple elegance, Bardessono embodies the true spirit of the Napa Valley – a respect for nature, an appreciation of the seasons, and a thorough enjoyment of the finer things in life. 62 guestrooms, full-service spa, rooftop pool, bicycles available for guest use.
Calistoga Ranch
580 Lommel Road
Calistoga, CA 94515
Tel: (707) 254-2800
Modern but luxurious 48-room resort, tucked into a private canyon. Each free-standing guest lodge features a large deck, fireplace, original artwork and a private outdoor shower garden. Beautiful spa, lakeside restaurant.
Mount View Hotel and Spa
1457 Lincoln Avenue
Calistoga, CA 94515
Tel: (800) 816-6877
Originally built in 1912, this elegant, historic hotel features newly renovated cottages and suites, each with a unique theme inspired by a local winery. Top-rated spa with a wide range of treatments.
Inns and B&Bs
Blackbird Inn
1755 First Street
Napa, CA 94559
Tel: (888) 567-9811
8-guestroom B&B in downtown Napa, located in a cozy but spacious, beautifully renovated California Craftsman house. Many rooms have fireplaces or private decks.
Lavender Inn
2020 Webber Avenue
Yountville, CA 94599
Tel: (800) 522-4140
This eight-guestroom inn combines modern comforts with warm, Provence-style colors and touches. All the rooms feature fireplaces.
Maison Fleurie
6529 Yount Street
Yountville, CA 94599
Tel: (800) 788-0369
Guests feel transported to Southern France in this romantic retreat surrounded by a half-acre of gardens. The historic stone buildings contains 13 guest rooms – there’s also an onsite pool and large hot tub.
topSonoma Valley
California winemaking was born here in the early 18th century, when the Franciscan friars from the Mission San Francisco Solano de Sonoma planted the first vines. Some thirty years later, a Hungarian political exile named Agoston Harasthzy began planting European varietals, and other Europeans followed. Today, the Sonoma Valley’s rich, varied terrain supports a highly diverse range of varietals and styles, unparalleled in the world.
topSonoma
The main town within the valley, Sonoma was first founded in 1823 as a Franciscan mission. In 1834, Mexican General Mariano Vallejo was sent to build a pueblo on the site. Many of the town’s historic buildings date from this period, and some of the state’s oldest wineries can be found not far from Sonoma’s Spanish-style main plaza.
Lachryma Montis (“Mountain Tear”)
West Spain Street, Sonoma
Open 10am-5pm Tue-Sun
The historic family home of General Vallejo was named for the nearby spring the local tribes called “crying mountain.” This Victorian estate was built in 1852, and was home to the Vallejo family for 35 years. Now a California Historic Landmark and part of the Sonoma State Historic Park, the beautifully restored home, with its period furnishings, is open to visitors.
topRestaurants
Sante
100 Boyes Blvd.
Sonoma, CA 95476
Tel: (707) 938-9000
The premier restaurant at the Sonoma Mission Inn offers exceptional, seasonal French cuisine and excellent service. One Michelin star. Note: Closed for renovations until April 2013.
John Ash & Co.
4330 Barnes Road
Santa Rosa, CA 95403
Tel: (707) 527-7687
This was the first Sonoma County restaurant to introduce the concept of local, seasonal cooking paired with regional wines.
topAccommodations
Gaige House
3540 Arnold Drive
Glen Ellen, CA 95442
Tel: (800) 935-0237
Boutique luxury hotel featuring 23 guestrooms, decorated in a tasteful, Asian-inspired blend of contemporary and vintage. Tucked within serene gardens, it’s a perfect weekend getaway.
Kenwood Inn and Spa
10400 Sonoma Highway
Kenwood, CA 95452
Tel: (800) 353-6966
Surrounded by vineyards, this luxury retreat has the feel of a Mediterranean villa. 29 rooms with fireplaces, featherbeds and Italian linens; award-winning spa and wine bar.
Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa
100 Boyes Blvd.
Sonoma, CA 95476
Tel: (707) 938-9000
One of the only luxury spa resorts in the country with its own source of thermal mineral water. Beautifully appointed accommodations (many with fireplaces), Michelin-starred restaurant.
Inn at Sonoma
630 Broadway
Sonoma, CA 95476
Tel: (888) 568-9818
This California-casual inn offers 19 guestrooms with charming, modern décor. Convenient location two blocks from Sonoma’s historic plaza. All rooms have fireplaces – most have private decks.
topSonoma Coast
Starting just south of Bodega Bay, the rugged and spectacular Sonoma Coast runs north for 76 miles. This sparsely populated stretch is a paradise of secluded beaches and windswept headlands, dotted with wildlife sanctuaries, state parks, and the occasional, tiny resort town. The first white settlements here were established by Russians, who left their legacy at historic Fort Ross.
topBodega Bay
Named for the Spanish explorer Juan Francisco de la Bodega y Cuadro, Bodega Bay is a busy fishing port and popular weekend destination. It’s most famous as the setting for Alfred Hitchcock’s classic film The Birds. Bodega Head is a prime spot for whale-watching Nov-Mar.
St. Theresa of Avila
This 1859 Roman Catholic church is Sonoma County’s oldest church in continuous use. It was briefly shown in The Birds and immortalized in a famous Ansel Adams photograph.
topFort Ross State Historic Park
Fort Ross
19005 Coast Highway One
Jenner, CA 95450
Tel: (707) 847-3286
Open daily in summer, weekends and holidays in winter. Closed Thanksgiving Day and Dec 25.
Built entirely of redwood on a seaside bluff, this Russian outpost was established in 1812 with the purpose of providing settlers in Alaska with food. The settlement thrived until 1841, and was the site of California’s first shipbuilding, windmills, and many of its first recordings of local history, flora and fauna. With most of the historic buildings now reconstructed, Fort Ross offers an interesting glimpse into the lives of the Russian settlers. Particularly notable are the Russian Orthodox chapel, the Official’s Quarters, and the Rotchev house, the only surviving original structure.
topRestaurants
Terrapin Creek
1580 Eastshore Road
Bodega Bay, CA 94923
Tel: (707) 875-2700
This casual neighborhood restaurant opened in 2008, and just received its first Michelin star. Local and international cuisine made with seasonal, responsibly sourced ingredients.
topHealdsburg and the Russian River Valley
With its 19th-century town square lined with tasting rooms, fine restaurants and boutique hotels, the small but upscale town of Healdsburg lies at the nexus of three major wine-producing regions: the Dry Creek, Alexander and Russian River Valleys. The surrounding landscape is dotted with orchards, redwood forests, off-the beaten-path wineries, and quirky little river towns boasting fantastic restaurants – the Russian River itself is popular for canoeing.
topRestaurants
Applewood Inn
13555 Highway 116
Guerneville, CA 95446
Tel: (707) 869-9093
Upscale but relaxed country dining, featuring seasonal produce sourced from the inn’s own herb and vegetable garden. One Michelin Star.
Bistro Ralph
109 Plaza Street
Healdsburg, CA 95448
Tel: (707) 433-1380
Locally inspired French cuisine in a friendly, casual setting.
Dry Creek Kitchen
317 Healdsburg Avenue
Healdsburg, CA 95448
Tel: (707) 433-0330
Celebrated Charlie Palmer restaurant serving fresh regional specialties and Sonoma wines.
Farmhouse Inn and Restaurant
7871 River Road
Forestville, CA 95436
Tel: (707) 887-3300
Run by a brother and sister who are fifth-generation farmers and vineyard owners, this restaurant has a commitment to locally sourced food that is second to none. Sublime cuisine in a romantic, timeless atmosphere. One Michelin star.
Madrona Manor
1001 Westside Road
Healdsburg, CA 95448
Tel: (800) 258-4003
Stylish, inventive New Californian cuisine in an elegant Victorian setting. One Michelin Star.
Mateo’s Cucina Latina
214 Healdsburg Avenue
Healdsburg, CA 95448
Tel: (707) 433-1520
Yucatan-born chef Mateo Granados turns out unique, soulful dishes that fuse the flavors of his homeland with local ingredients and French finesse.
Willi’s Seafood & Raw Bar
403 Healdsburg Avenue
Healdsburg, CA 95448
Tel: (707) 433-9191
East Coast meets wine country. Intriguing small plates and seasonal cocktails.
topAccommodations
Hotel Healdsburg
25 Matheson Street
Healdsburg, CA 95448
Tel: (707) 431-2800
Centrally located on the edge of the town’s historic plaza. Spacious, modern guest rooms, 60-foot garden pool, first-rate spa. Condé Nast Traveler Gold List, 2007-2011.
Hotel Les Mars
27 North Street
Healdsburg, CA 95448
Tel: (707) 433-4211
This Relais & Chateaux hotel is just a block from the town square, in an historic building filled with 17th and 18th-century antiques. Its old-world French charm extends to the European-style service. 16 rooms.