Basics

The best time for travel is April-June and September-October when the weather is pleasant and the crowds are smaller. July and August can heat up especially around archeological sites, but it is very pleasant along the coast.

Between December and March Istanbul is cold, grey and blustery. Temperatures average 42F. Summer temperatures average 78-88F from June to August, occasionally hitting 104F. The best weather is in spring and autumn when days are temperate and evenings mild.

Turkey is two hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time, and seven hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time. So when it is noon in New York, it is 7 pm in Istanbul. Daylight-savings time in Turkey runs from the last Sunday in March to the last Sunday in October. There is no Turkish equivalent of am and pm, so the 24-hour clock is used.

Both a valid passport and an entry visa are required for citizens of the U.S. It's unnecessary to acquire an entry visa prior to departure, as visas can easily be obtained upon arrival, except, perhaps, if you arrive by sea. Depending on your nationality, visas are valid for 3 months; visas for multiple entries within a 90-day period are also available for a higher fee.

Note: If you are planning on sailing the Aegean and wish to stop at a Greek Island, you must have a Greek visa. We were told we would not need one and I was heartbroken when I couldn't visit Chios, my Dad's birthplace.

There are no severe health risks for travel to Turkey, nor are vaccinations required. Although water from the tap is chlorinated and generally safe to drink, even the locals drink bottled water. Always confirm the water bottle has the factory seal intact.

Despite politically motivated bombings in Istanbul in 2003 and 2004 and bombings in coastal resort towns, travel in Turkey is generally safe and tourists are warmly received. Check the State Department travel advisories for the latest information.

Local Currency

The New Turkish Lira, or Yeni Türk Liras (YTL), is the Turkish currency. Banknotes come in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 20, 50 and 100 YTL, while coins, called the New Kuruş, or Yeni Kuruş (YKr), come in 1, 5, 10, 25 and 50 kuruş pieces (1YTL = 100YKr). There is also a 1YTL coin.

Credit Cards

All cities and major tourist destinations in Turkey have bank machines on the Cirrus and PLUS networks. Most ATMs in Turkey accept numbered PINs only, and some limit their input to four digits. Also, be aware that the ATMs are often fickle or empty, so always carry around alternatives in the form of cash or traveler's checks for emergencies.

Traveler's Checks

In Turkey, as in many other European countries, local merchants are loath to accept traveler's checks, as banks charge large fees to cash them out. Banks tend to charge high commissions or hide the commission in lower rates, as do the exchange offices around town. Hotels are most amenable to exchanging your traveler's checks, but hotel exchange rates are notoriously unfavorable.

Changing Money

There are dozens of exchange bureaus in the main tourist and shopping districts. These are easier to deal with than banks. They are generally open long hours, from 9 am to 7:30 pm, Monday through Saturday.

Tipping

Gratuities are a way of life in Turkey and are often expected for even the most minor service. Try to keep small notes handy and follow these guidelines:

• Give the bellhop 50 kuruş to 1YTL (35¢-75¢) per bag
• Leave at least an additional 10% of the restaurant bill for your waiter
• Reward your tour guide with 14YTL to 27YTL ($10-$20) for a job well done
• Thank the captain of your boat with about 68YTL ($50)
• Give your masseur/masseuse 4YTL before the rubdown
• Shows of appreciation are also expected from your chambermaid, your barber or hairdresser, and an usher who has shown you to your seat.

Dialing Codes

The international country code for Turkey is 90.
When calling from abroad:
1. Dial the international access code: (011 in the U.S., 00 in the U.K).
2. Dial the country code: 90.
3. Istanbul is divided into two area codes: (0)212 European side; (0)216 Asian side. Drop the 0 when calling from outside Turkey.

Information and Emergency Codes

110 - Fire Hotline
155 - Police Hotline
112 - General first-aid emergencies (ambulance included)
115 - International Operator
118 - Directory assistance

Mobile Phones

There are three GSM networks: Türkcell, Telsim and Avea. If you bring a mobile phone from the United Kingdom you'll have no problem using it as long as you've set up a roaming facility. U.S. mobile phones won't work, though. A cheaper option is to invest in a local SIM card, which can be used with any handset. They are available through all the GSM operators.

The standard electric current is 220V AC; therefore, most devices from North America cannot be used without an adaptor and transformer. Outlets are compatible with the round European two-prong plug.

At mosques and other Muslim holy places, as well as at homes, you must remove your shoes and leave them at the entrance. Immodest clothing is not allowed, but an attendant may be stationed at the door to lend you a robe if he feels you are not dressed appropriately. Women should cover their heads. Keep your voice down and don't take photographs of the worshippers. Working mosques are closed to non-worshippers for a half an hour or so during the five daily prayer periods, and may be closed for a longer time midday on Friday, the Muslim holy day. Wait until most of the worshippers have left before entering.

Some other points to remember: a man should not touch a woman (other than family) unless the woman offers her hand or cheek first; although many people in Turkey do drink alcohol, never offer alcohol or pork to a Muslim and do not partake yourself if unsure of your companion's views; dress modestly – no bare knees, shoulders or midriffs for either sex; don't say anything that is dismissive or critical of Islam, and avoid political discussions around Cyprus, Greece and Iraq.

One of the five obligations required by Islam is the observation of Ramadan, the Muslim holy month of fasting. For one full lunar month that varies yearly, Muslims are prohibited during daylight hours from eating, drinking, smoking or succumbing to sexual thoughts or activity. Instead, they adapt to an altered schedule, rising before daylight for breakfast, and then going back to bed. The fast is broken at sundown with an early evening meal.

Ramadan evenings include festivities and fun. In Istanbul, Sultanahmet Square is transformed into an extravaganza of food and music. There are some small considerations for potential visitors. In exchange for all of this cultural overload, expect a slight alteration in the way people and places operate – restaurants that are normally open might be closed; shops that are normally closed might be open; menu items that are normally available might be unavailable due to the general lack of demand. Also bothersome are the drummers who systematically wander the streets waking Muslims (and everybody else) for sahur, or the predawn meal.

As Ramadan begins and ends with the sighting of the crescent moon (hilal), exact dates are difficult to predict and change from year to year. An approximate guide follows:

• 2010: August 10 to September 9
• 2011: August 1 to August 30