Bordeaux
Humankind’s history in the Bordeaux region dates back thousands of years, when Cro-Magnon man left cave paintings at Lascaux and Les Eyzies. During the middle ages, struggles for control of the Aquitaine province left their legacy in the form of castles and fortified villages. In the 18th century, the city of Bordeaux experienced a golden age, reflected in its many sumptuous theaters, mansions and palaces. All of these treasures are surrounded by supreme natural beauty, from rolling river valleys to the rocky Pyrenees mountains to the fishing towns on the Atlantic coast.
Bordeaux’s fame as a producer of fine wines began in the 12th century. Today it is the most important wine region in the world, and home to the most renowned wine estates. Bordeaux is divided into 57 wine-growing territories, or appellations – wines must be labeled with their appellation to let buyers know where they were produced. Here are a few of the best-known appellations:
Médoc – Northwest of the city of Bordeaux, on the left bank of the Gironde. Produces elegant, delicate red wines. Some of the most famous châteaux are here, including Château Margaux.
Graves – Southeast of the city of Bordeaux. Known for its gravely soil, this region produces rich, deeply colored red wines and fruity whites.
Sauternes – Just east of Graves. This region is famous for its sweet dessert wines, produced using a fungus known as botrytis, or “noble rot.”
St. Emilion – East of the city of Bordeaux. The oldest of the Bordeaux wine regions, it produces the most robust wines.
topBordeaux
This busy port on the Garonne River is France’s fifth-largest city. It first flourished during Roman times, and again from the 12th to the 15th centuries, when it earned its reputation in the wine trade. In the 18th century, the city’s role in the colonial “triangle trade” brought new prosperity to the region. Some 5,000 structures were built during this Golden Age, many quite splendid. Bordeaux’s urban expansion was so successful that it was the model for Paris’ redesign under Napoleon III. The historic center has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Though technically broken into arrondissements, most people think of Bordeaux in terms of neighborhoods, or quarters. The Saint Pierre Quarter is the historic heart of town, and its culinary center. The Chartrons Quarter was a busy trade district; today, it’s filled with antique shops. The St. Eulalie Quarter contains Bordeaux’s main shopping street, rue Sainte Catherine. The Saint Michael Quarter, with its twice-weekly markets and ethnically mixed population, is the most colorful and lively district. The chic, elegant Grands Hommes Quarter is home to the Grand Théâtre.
topSights
Cathedral of St. Andre
Place Pey Berland 33000 Bordeaux
+33 (5) 56 81 26 25
One of the city’s main landmarks, this Gothic cathedral is comparable in size to Notre Dame in Paris. The nave dates from the 12th century – the choir and transepts are from the 14th century. The elaborately carved north doorway is the church’s finest feature, and was recently restored.
Church of Saint Pierre
Quartier St-Pierre 60, Rue Chevalier de la Barre 33130 Bègles
Built on the site of the old Gallo-Roman port, this church was restored in the 19th century but retains its flamboyant Gothic facade. Inside, look for a striking 17th-century Pieta.
Fleche St-Michel
Place Canteloup
At 114 meters, the free-standing clock tower of St. Michael’s basilica is the tallest monument in the southwest of France. Views from the top stretch 47 miles.
Place de la Bourse and Quays
33000 Bordeaux, France
Designed by the King’s architect, Jacques Gabriel, the Place de la Bourse (formerly the Royal Palace) was completed in 1755. The classical French design of the palace, with high its archways and slate roof, determined the style of the other houses on the quay. These buildings are particularly lovely at night.
Grand Théâtre de Bordeaux
Place de la Comédie 33000 Bordeaux
+33 (5) 56 00 85 95
Famed architect Victor Louis oversaw the construction of this imposing neoclassical building. Completed in 1780, it holds 1,114 people. In the 1990s, the interior was restored to its original blue-and-gold splendor, and the renovation of the façade was completed in 2006. The theater is home to the Opéra National de Bordeaux and the Ballet National de Bordeaux.
Chartrons Museum
Quartier Chartrons
41 Rue Borie
+33 (5) 57 87 50 60
Open Mon-Fri 2pm-6pm
This museum in an 18th-century townhouse traces Bordeaux’s wine heritage and the lives of the old Bordeaux wine merchants. All aspects of wine production, from cellaring and bottling to packaging and shipping, are covered.
Musee D'Art Contemporain De Bordeaux (CAPC)
7 Rue Ferrere 33000 Bordeaux
+33 (5) 56 00 81 50
Housed in an old colonial warehouse, this museum’s collection contains nearly 1,000 works of art, from 1960 to the present.
Marché des Capuchins
Place des Capucins 33000 Bordeaux
+33 (5) 56 00 66 00
Saturday mornings
Known as les Capus by the locals, this is the market that restaurateurs swear by. Well-stocked with extremely fresh fish and seafood.
topHotel/Spa
Les Sources de Caudalie
Chemin de Smith Haute Lafitte
33650 Bordeaux-Martillac
Tel: +33 (5) 57 83 83 83
Fax: +33 (5) 57 83 83 84
Spa closed Sun pm and Mon am
20 mins south of Bordeaux, this wonderfully serene spa/hotel offers unique treatments that combine naturally warm spring water with vine and grape extracts. No treatments for guests under 16 years old. Tennis, golf, pool, bike riding.
Spa restaurants:
La Grand’Vigne
Inspired by 18th century orangeries, this gourmet restaurant features a large terrace overlooking the pond.
La Table du Lavoir
A true country inn set in an old stone laundry house.
topRestaurants
La Tupina
6 Rue de la Porte de la Monnaie
33800 Bordeaux
+33 (5) 56 91 56 37
Info: latupina@latupina.com
Rustic bistro serving authentic local food
Le Café Regent
46 Place Gambetta 33000 Bordeaux
+33 (5) 56 44 16 20
Quintessential city café, seasonal cuisine. Large heated terrace.
Hotel Restaurant Le Saint-James
3 Place Camille Hostein
Bouliac (just southeast of Bordeaux)
+33 (5) 57 97 06 00, +33 (5) 56 20 92 58
Info: stjames@relaischateaux.com
Audacious cuisine from the Gironde region. Spacious, glass-enclosed modern room and terrace with a view of the vineyards, the river and the city of Bordeaux.
Cordeillan-Bages Relais and Château
Route des Châteaux – BP 79
Pauillac (about an hour north of the spa)
+33 5 5659 2424
Experimental cuisine by chef Thierry Marx, served in an elegant 18th-century mansion in the heart of the Medoc region.
topShopping
Baillardran
Numerous locations
Bakery specializing in canelés
Chris’teas
Salon de thé
16 passage Sarget
+33 (5) 56 81 29 86
Boutique de thé
Gallerie des Grands Hommes
+33 (5) 56 52 19 79
topSaint-Emilion
Located within Bordeaux’s oldest wine-growing region, St. Emilion was founded by a Breton monk in the 8th century. Commercial wine production in the area was started by the monks at the hermitage. The village is one of the few medieval towns in the region still surrounded by walls, and is filled with houses and Romanesque churches built of luminous ochre-colored stone. The most ancient monuments are underground, carved out of the limestone hillside. A UNESCO World Heritage site, St. Emilion is worth visiting just to roam the steep, narrow streets, but there are also numerous wine shops for tasting the local products. We were pleasantly surprised at how easy it was to ship wine home. And be sure to try the macaroons - they have been a town specialty since the 17th century.
topSights
Monolithic Church
Can only be visited on a guided tour
Guided tours depart from the tourist office
The Monolithic Church, carved entirely from limestone, is the largest church of its kind in Europe. Leading from the cathedral is a labyrinth of underground passages, housing catacombs, ossuaries and the grotto where St. Emilion lived. Trinity Chapel, built in honor of St. Emilion, is a fine example of 13th century architecture – its remarkable frescos have been newly restored.
Bell Tower
Open daily year round
Directly above the monolithic church, this bell tower was built between the 12th and 14th centuries. At 133 meters, it’s the second tallest structure in the department of Gironde.
Collegiate Church
This Romanesque church was built as part of an ecclesiastical college in the 12th century. The cloister was rebuilt in the 14th century on the remains of a previous Romanesque cloister. The church features gorgeous stained glass and a rare 19th-century organ.
Cordelier’s Monastery
With its delicate archways and ivy-covered walls, this 14th-century monastery and cloister is a serenely beautiful place.
Château du Roy
The 13th King’s Tower is the only intact keep in the region, and is said to be the only remains of a royal castle that once stood here.
topVineyards and Wineries
Grand Cru Classé
Grand Cru Classé
Château Gonplégade
38330 Saint Emilion
Tel: +33 (5) 57 74 43 11
Fax: +33 (5) 57 74 44 67
La Grande Cave de Saint Emilion
6 Pl Clocher
33330 Saint Emilion
Tel: +33 (5) 57 24 14 24
Fax: +33 95) 57 24 04 80
Info: lgc.st.emilion@wanadoo.fr
topHotel
La Relais de Franc Mayne
14 La Gomerie
33330 Saint Emilion
Tel: +33 (5) 57 24 62 61
Fax: +33 (5) 57 24 68 25
Info: welcome@relaisfrancmayne.com
Part boutique hotel, part working winery, and ideally located 1 km from St. Emilion, it's a perfect wine-lover's retreat. The recently restored 16th-century château features nine uniquely styled rooms, a natural-water swimming pool, and wines from the surrounding vineyard.
topRestaurants
L’Envers du Décor
11 Rue du Clocher BP 18
33330 Saint Emilion
+33 (5) 57 74 48 31
Info: enversdudecor@nerim.fr
Restaurant and wine bar. Regional cuisine fresh from the market.
Hostellerie de la Plaisance
Place du Clocher
+33 (5) 57 55 07 55
Gastronomic restaurant in a 4-star hotel. Imaginative, seasonal cuisine by chef Phillipe Etchebest. Smart casual (no shorts).
topShopping
Wine
Comptoir des Vignobles
1 Rue des Girondins
+33 (5) 57 24 61 10
La Grande Cave de Saint Emilion
6 Place Clocher
+33 (5) 57 24 14 24
Ets Martin
25 Rue Porte Guadet
+33 (5) 57 74 43 44
Macaroons
Mme Blanchez
9 Rue Guadet
+33 (5) 57 24 72 33
topChâteaux
In France, a château can be a castle or a manor house, but in wine-growing regions it is usually a wine-producing estate. In Bordeaux it's customary for producers of wine to preface their name with “Château,” whether the estate has a grand manor house or not. However, most of major estates have magnificent buildings that reflect their esteem, and are often worth seeing in themselves.
The Bordeaux wine region covers 460 square miles around the city of Bordeaux, and getting around it takes time – the region of Médoc, for example, is an hour’s drive northwest of Les Sources de Caudalie, St. Emilion is a good 45 minutes east, and Graves an hour or so southeast. We recommend concentrating on a separate region each day, and choosing two or three châteaux to visit. It's essential to book ahead and highly advisable to hire a driver.
There are some 10,000 châteaux in Bordeaux, and 57 appellations, so narrowing down the choices isn’t easy. Here, we’ve listed a few of the most renowned vineyards in the best-known regions. Classifications can vary between regions – for a better understanding of how the wines are classified and produced, take a look at 1855: A History of the Bordeaux Classification by Dewey Markham, Jr., or The Complete Bordeaux by Stephen Brook.
topMédoc
Premiers Crus
Château Mouton-Rothschild
Baron Philippe de Rothschild SA, BP 117, 33250 Pauillac
Tel: +33 5 56 73 20 20
Fax: +33 5 56 73 20 44
Château Lafite-Rothschild
33250 Pauillac
Tel: +33 5 53 89 78 00
Fax: +33 5 53 89 78 01
Château Margaux
33460 Margaux
Tel: +33 5 57 88 83 83
Fax +33 5 57 88 31 32
Château Latour
33250 Pauillac
Tel: +33 5 56 73 19 80
Fax: +33 (0) 556 73 19 81
Deuxièmes Crus
Château Pichon-Baron
33250 Pauillac
Tel: +33 5 56 73 17 17
Fax: +33 5 56 73 17 28
Château Montrose
33180 St-Estèphe
Tel: +33 5 56 59 30 12
Fax: +33 5 56 59 38 48
Château Cos d'Estournel
33180 St Estèphe
Tel: +33 5 56 73 15 50
Fax: +33 5 56 59 72 59
topGraves
Château La Mission Haut-Brion
Route de Cadaujac, 33850 Léognan
Tel: +33 5 56 64 75 11
Fax: +33 5 56 64 53 60
Château Laville Haut-Brion
Route de Cadaujac, 33850 Léognan
Tel: +33 5 56 64 75 11
Fax: +33 5 56 64 53 60
Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte
33650 Martillac
Tel: +33 5 57 83 11 22
Fax: +33 5 57 83 11 21
Located quite close to Les Sources de Caudalie.
topSt. Emilion
Premier Grand Cru Classé A
Château Ausone
33330 St Emilion
Tel: +33 5 57 24 24 57
Fax: +33 5 57 24 24 58
Premier Grand Cru Classé B
Clos Fourtet
33330 St Emilion
Tel: +33 5 57 24 70 90
Fax: +33 5 57 74 46 52
Château Figeac
33330 St Emilion
Tel: +33 5 57 24 72 26
Fax: +33 5 57 74 45 74
The châteaux we visited:
Grand Cru Classé
Château Gonplégade
38330 Saint Emilion
Tel: +33 (5) 57 74 43 11
Fax: +33 (5) 57 74 44 67
La Grande Cave de Saint Emilion
6 Pl Clocher
33330 Saint Emilion
Tel: +33 (5) 57 24 14 24
Fax: +33 95) 57 24 04 80
Info: lgc.st.emilion@wanadoo.fr
topSauternes
Premier Cru Supérieur
Château d'Yquem
33210 Sauternes
Tel: +33 5 57 98 07 07
Fax: +33 5 57 98 07 08
Premiers Crus
Château Rieussec
33210 Fargues de Langon
Tel: +33 5 53 89 78 00
Fax: +33 5 53 89 78 01
Château Climens
33720 Barsac
Tel: +33 5 56 27 15 33
Fax: +33 5 56 27 21 04
Château Coutet
33720 Barsac
Tel: +33 5 56 27 15 46
Fax +33 5 56 27 02 20